29.06.2013 - 29.06.2013
Today we planned to take a boat tour from Hvar harbor to some beaches and towns on Vis Island, and to some sea caves on small islands just offshore of Vis.
Didn't happen. We had our 3 caves tour to Vis Island cancelled today due to weather, so we improvised by renting a car and exploring some of the other little towns on the island.
A little photo op over a town called Velo Grablje near the highest point of the island. We could see the other islands offshore.
Next stop was a town called Vrboska, which had a quaint little canal. We grabbed pizza next to the canal.
Next we walked the harbor of a town called Jelsa.
These towns were very pleasant, but I think our favorite was our next stop, Stari Grad (old town).
Stari Grad harbor
This is one of the oldest towns in Europe. In fact, the flat agricultural plain just outside Stari Grad is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The layout of these fields implemented by Greeks in the 4th century BC remain in use, because the same stone walls used to split the field into parcels have been maintained since then.
View of Stari Grad and the plain.
Here we decided to make more than just a pit stop. The old town is very twisty and windy, and very fun to get lost in.
It was pleasantly devoid of tourists like us. If you wanted an atmospheric place to get away from it all and hang out with locals, this would be the place. When the light rain started it sent the locals scattering. Being Pacific Northwesterners we just carried on and enjoyed how the light rain made the limestone streets and buildings shine.
Wet, twisted lanes
Hidden and isolated courtyards
We returned and when I checked in the car they offered me a beer while I wait. Ply customers with drink, a customer service technique rarely explored in the US.
I usually try to stay more than one night at each place we visit to minimize the amount time we pack and unpack stuff. However, as great as the stay at the Ivanovic was, it was quite a steep walk up the hill. Sobes can be limited and expensive near the Hvar harbor. Because I got a killer deal right off the harbor for only the second night at the Rosso apartment, and I was concerned about the condition of Jen's foot after hiking up all those stairs, we made exception and moved over there for the second night. Now instead of navigating an ungodly amount of steps to reach our room, we just need to scamper up ‘too many’ steps.
However this place probably has the best view of any accommodation in the town, so we count ourselves as fortunate. It makes me not even want to leave the room. The man who rents the room said that in the winter when he doesn’t rent the place, he likes to come up to the room, sit on the balcony, and pretend he’s a captain directing the movement of all the ships down on the harbor. There was a small washer/dryer, 2 bedrooms, and a very nice kitchen that of course I didn't take a picture of.
We did our only load of wash for the trip we had some drinks on the deck. Later we couldn't get the washing machine to spin the water out of the clothes so we had to hoof them down to the laundromat for an industrial strength dry anyways.
View from the deck